V E R O N A

Do you remember that dream you had as a kid? You know the one that you knew was never going to happen because it was so "fairy-tale-like" but you couldn't let it go? My childhood dream became a reality in the fair city of Verona, Italy. I went to Verona to walk the streets of the city where Shakespeare's greatest tragedy took place. I expected to find solemness there but was happily surprised by the overwhelming sense of love & loyalty that seemed to hover over the entire town as if it were coming down from the heavens above...

The walls that encircle Verona are high and very protective. This gives it a medieval feel but don't be fooled, Verona is a very booming modern city. The streets are filled with extravagant shops & cafes. The center of town hosts a street faire with local vendors selling their goods, & there is a Colosseum similar to the one in Rome.
Of course my first stop had to be at Club di Giulietta where the letters to Juliet are received by secretaries who carefully read & respond to each one. My heart skipped a beat when I walked into this room. The outpouring of emotions and love weighs heavily here. These people dedicate their lives to giving encouragement, love, & support every day to thousands of people they have never met. I was honored to be in their presence.


This is a very small glimpse at one of the many boards that hosts the letters written to Juliet. The secretaries shared with me books and books of them, labeled by year & neatly arranged, all of them handled with great care & respect. These letters come from all over the world. It is hard not to grasp the impact that the story of Romeo & Juliet's love has had when you are here.
The love flows everywhere in the courtyard of casa di Giulietta (Juliet's house) where messages are left in graffiti style, locks that hang on the gates, and folded & stuck in the crevices of the walls. Even amongst the crowds (it's hard to walk in this courtyard which is constantly filled by people from all walks of life) you can't help but be overcome with joy & a strong sense of hope. Hope that true love really does exist & never really dies.


I know what you're thinking. Romeo & Juliet is a tragedy. It's sad, not joyful. Trust me, I studied the play for years, I get it, or at least I thought I did until I arrived here... Juliet's tomb. Not nearly as populated as the courtyard with the romantic balcony, (I was alone here most of the time, with one visitor who entered for a brief moment) it is still a place of wonder & for me, enlightenment. 

One would expect a grave sight to be dark, dreary, cold, & a bit scary. I didn't feel any of those things while I was here. Instead, I felt the warmth of the sun that left an amazing glow inside the tomb and there were even more letters stuck in the crevices here, many looked like they'd been here for years. It was a quiet & peaceful place but oddly felt comfortable.

Outside the tomb lay this big red heart statue. I sat and stared at it for a long time. I noted how it looked as if it had wings and could fly, kind of like a butterfly. I also thought it resembled an open book. It even mimicked lips puckering up for a kiss. All of the things I saw are symbols of love, and love was the only feeling I walked away with that day. 



"Romeo, Romeo, wherefore art thou Romeo?" Finding Romeo's house took a bit of determination & perseverance. Unlike Juliet's abode which is actually only blocks away (a few leaps over high walls for the lover to get there), Romeo's place isn't exactly on the map of tourism. I was determined to walk from one to the other & not surprisingly, right smack in the middle of them is the Teatro Nuovo, a theater but of course!


At night, the courtyard at casa di Giulietta is closed and the gates are locked. Being able to walk around in it like this, without the crowds, would simply be amazing, although unlikely....


However, I was very fortunate to have a private dinner & dance in this courtyard and that fairy-tale dream came true. It was by far the most memorable night of my life. I now feel like I completely know & understand the love that almost everyone reads about at least once in their lifetime (42 times if you're me)




This statue of Juliet stands boldly in the corner of the courtyard. She has her picture taken hundreds of times a day, often with hand on breast, as it is supposed to bring good luck, although I find that tradition a bit tacky. I respect Juliet as a heroine. Whether you believe the story to be real or not doesn't matter. The real question is do you believe in love? Do you believe it withstands the test of time? If you're unsure, I encourage to visit Verona & Juliet's courtyard, then get back to me ;)


The city of Verona has a lot to offer. It's really not hard picturing living here as Romeo & Juliet in the 14th century, or as an Italian shoe designer in the 21st century. It is a town full of magic & mystery, love & loyalty, faith & friendship. After three weeks of traveling the country, I can honestly say that Verona was by far my favorite place to visit in Italy. I can't wait to return!!




"Good Night! Good Night! Parting is such sweet sorrow, that I shall good night til it be morrow..."  

Southern Oregon Wines, Applegate Valley

Vineyard hopping in Oregon is quite different than Napa or Temecula, while everyone is quite friendly & neighborly, you really do have to drive miles to get from one tasting room to the next. By far my funnest visit was at Fly High & Longsword Vineyards. Matt, the owner, opened his doors for us during "off hours" and was more than happy to share his wine. 


After trying the semi-sparkling chardonnay, viognier, barnstormer's tempranillo, salute' syrah, & phrase pinot noir, I just couldn't decide because they were all so good, so I joined the wine club. I must add that I am most excited (and for those of you who know my wine taste, prepare to be shocked) for the arrival of the 09 Conversation Vin De Glace' dessert wine. Yummy!! Folks out here say that's a technical term ;)
One of the things I love about some Oregon vineyards is their small town feel and real sense of family. This brings me here to Devitt Winery. We were greeted & welcomed by owner Jim Devitt's grandson. It wasn't long before Jim, himself showed up in the tasting room. And when I told them my taste, the 03 Cab came out & I was sold 110%!


The barrel room here is comfortable & homey. This vineyard had my favorite story and they call it "the flying pig"  You'll have to stop by to find out why but I guarantee you the company, the story behind the vines, & the wine itself will be well worth the trip.


Welcome to Schmidt Family Vineyards. When I first arrived here, my feet left the ground a bit. I can't imagine heaven really exists on earth but I know this place comes as close as it gets. Beauty is too tame a description. I have to admit, it was hard to focus on the wine! I will say that the sweeter wines prevailed under the blue skies of this paradise.


If this isn't picture perfect, I don't know what is. Okay, the wine... right. The Gewurtztraminer is a combination of floral & spice, all the best of life! And I can't think of a better name for a bold red than the Mighty Mac. This Tempranillo and Syrah blend is as memorable as its surroundings.
Open the gates to Troon Vineyard. The Applegate Valley keeps getting better and better. Try some Druid's Fluid Red here, you might as well get an I.V. drip going. Drinkable is the best way to describe these wines, there wasn't one I didn't appreciate. The humbug Fire Cab was ambitious. I was hoping to try their cream of the crop, Vertical II but time was running out. 

The view from the tasting room was so close to the vineyards themselves, that you could almost imagine picking the grapes, crushing them, and pouring them into your glass. It was obvious the process had more love in it and so did the people serving it. Another top notch experience.


My last stop was at Wooldridge Creek Vineyard & Winery. There was a definitive standout here in the magical Reserve Dessert Port. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, & Merlot, this port is fortified with Brandy & aged in French oak casks for six years. The result  is well worth the $50 pricetag.


The road to Applegate vineyards in Southern Oregon is the "route 66" of wine tours. It's history in the making and I am so thrilled to have experienced it. My two very select cases I ordered came today. (Thank you Misty!!) I can't wait to share them... and southern Oregon better watch out... I'll be back! 


"Wine improves with age, the older I get, the more I like it"  anonymous

Southern Oregon Wines, Rogue Valley

Wine tasting in the countryside of Oregon is like sitting in a postcard surrounded by some of the best grapes in the world. But grapes were not the first fruit grown here. In fact, Oregon is well known for its pear orchards. This plantation like mansion was built between Jacksonville & Ashland by Gordon Voorhies in the late 1800's and is now home to Eden Valley Orchards, "the birthplace of the pear industry & a leader of innovative agrigulture."

"Plant apples for your children, & pears for your grandchildren" is an old saying from this area, and now they have added the grape and labelled their wines EdenVale. Their first vintage (from 2001) was released in 2003 and while they may be a young vineyard, their wines are full of depth and character. My favorite was the 03 Cabernet Franc. It's silky yet sassy. If you are more of a white drinker, the 08 Reserve Chardonnay is not to be missed. 
Overlooking the rogue valley on the hillside lies the vineyards of Paschal. Noted for its panoramic views, it was certainly one I was not going to miss, yet I did. The tasting room was closed so while I can't comment on their wines yet (I did purchase a bottle in town), I can say the property is a beautiful one.




Purchased in 2009 by the Tenuta family, it now hosts the name Paschal Tenuta. I heard it through the grapevine that the Estate Merlot Port is divine. Let's hope I can get my hands on one soon.

My next stop was at Trium Vineyards. It's best to have a back roads map while searching for this winery. I was ever so happy when I finally stumbled upon it until I ran into the locked gate. Apparently, winter isn't the best time to visit wineries in the Rogue Valley.



Fortunately, Liquid Assets, a wine bar in downtown Ashland carries many local wines and so I put Trium (and a few others) to the test. Once again, my palette surprised me. Who knew a viognier could wow my tastebuds the way the 2010 Trium viognier did! Fresh, crisp, fruity, and delicious. A great white for the great outdoors.

On the outskirts of town is where I found the finest of red wines at Weisinger Vineyards. Founded by John Weisinger in 1979, this family vineyard is home to some pretty amazing red blends including the 2006 Mescolare, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, & Nebbiolo. If you like a little spice with your wine, try the 2006 Pompadour with Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, & Malbec.

Of course, I couldn't have brought any of these fine wines home without the help of my new friend Misty from Enoteca (Italian for Wine Library)  in the Ashland plaza. Brought to you by EdenVale (as mentioned above) the Enoteca is a member of the Ashland Gallery Association and features local artists. Stop in for a glass of vino, I guarantee you'll go home with more.


Check back in a few days for my next blog on Applegate Valley... Cheers!



"Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used"  William Shakespeare

Ashland, Oregon

"To be or not to be," that is the question. The answer is, if you want to be, the place is Ashland, Oregon. Yes, the city is most famous for it's Oregon Shakespeare Festival and we will get to that, but Ashland has so much more to offer. My stay here started at Lithia Springs Resort, just 3 miles north of downtown Ashland. Beautiful english cottages, various gardens throughout the property, natural hot springs, & small town hospitality make this a tranquil and healing place to stay while visiting southern Oregon.

The lobby in this resort is very welcoming with its warm fireplace, fresh mineral water & cookies available at all times, and spa like atmosphere. But what made Lithia Springs a go-to place for me was the graciousness of the entire staff. From the front desk, to the event planner and the morning chef, the people here at Lithia Springs are top notch. And speaking of cooking, don't leave without some of Sharon's home made scones, they are amazing!!

The gardens at this resort must be extremely gorgeous, however, if you happen to be here in the winter, the snowy effect is just as breathtaking. The property lies just beneath the hills and is very spread out so it's not your average hotel. It is in the process of being completely remodeled and new rooms are being added as well. Lithia Springs has the beauty and pleasantry to make any stay in this area well worth while. "Shall I compare thee to a summer's day? Thou art more lovely"

One of the first things you'll see entering the town of Ashland is Lithia Park. The 93 acre playground has everything from tennis & volleyball to Japanese gardens, waterfalls, & duck ponds. It's as picturesque as it looks in this photo, bursting with every natural beauty imaginable. It's not uncommon to walk the grounds and have deer cross your path or spot many a beautiful bird swooping toward you. Lithia is definitely a walk in the park you don't want to miss!

Sitting high above the park is what many come to Ashland for, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. Founded in 1935, OSF has been a huge part of this community ever since. It runs 8 months out of each year, presenting 780 performances annually. This time around, I was very fortunate to see the new production of "Romeo & Juliet". This is not, by far, my first viewing of this epic play, however, it was the most unique performance I have seen to date.

Having studied Shakespearean Literature in college, and even written a thesis on Romeo & Juliet, I have to say that I was most impressed by Jason Rojas who portrayed Mercutio. "All the worlds a stage, and each of us merely players..." Mr. Rojas is quite the player. Understanding the depth of this character & his underlying importance to the story line is key in order to appreciate the true artistry portrayed here. For the first time ever, I was able to see Mercutio come to life the way Shakespeare had intended and all I can say is Bravo!


There are many wonderful shops here in Ashland, Oregon. One of the reasons I enjoy them so much is that each one has a personal story. There is no franchise or corporation backing these small businesses. They are truly homemade. One of my favorites is Ashland Envy. There's nothing quite like wearing your heart on your sleeve and it's quite obvious that Ashland is the heart of this store. Lisa, the owner, carries everything from t-shirts & baseball caps to wine glasses & baby clothes. Make sure when you pop in to tell her Melody says "hi" :)

My next stay was right here in the heart of downtown at Ashland Springs Hotel. It is by far the tallest building around and probably the most gorgeous too. Built in 1925, the hotel is listed on the National Register of Historic Places & Historic Hotels of America. It is rich in both history and beauty. More importantly, the hospitality is above and beyond. The concierge at this hotel is extremely helpful and courteous. Don't forget to ask about the adjacent Waterstone Spa & Salon where you can get pampered with top of the line service & quality.

"What light through yonder window breaks" The top of the Ashland Springs Hotel boasts beautiful views of the city and its surrounding nature. I would sit here in these chairs at night and read sonnets under the stars, all while keeping warm of course! Have a Romeo of your own? Staying in this hotel will leave you feeling  like star crossed lovers as it inspires romance around every corner.

And if Shakespeare isn't enough, the Cabaret Theater is right up the street. The building was originally a church built in 1911. After renovations, it became a theater in 1986 showcasing 30 performances a year. It now presents 270 performances annually showing that this small town is culturally active. I saw the production of "Let's Misbehave", a musical montage of Cole Porter hits presented by a very talented cast of three.


If you're headed to the mountains, a great place to stay is at Callahan's Lodge. Right off of old hwy 99, the lodge resembles that of a log cabin with very lush surroundings. Owners, Ron & Donna, have added all the comforts of home to this luxurious vacation spot nestled just below the Siskiyou Mountains. The restaurant is phenomenal and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. I was fortunate enough to stay here on my last trip and loved it so much, I just had to pop in for a visit!



There is plenty of active things to do in the Ashland area. It's only a 20 minute drive up to Mount Ashland Ski Resort which is rightfully home to the "Sonnet" ski lift. You don't have to look far for other active sports such as mountain biking, river rafting, zip-lining, horseback riding, golfing, or my personal favorite, wine tasting (the next blog will cover that extensively). Southern Oregon is beautiful, and with so much to do and see, it's a trip worth making from wherever you are. I like it so much, I just might move there one day....

"It is not in the stars to hold our destiny but in ourselves" Shakespeare