Verona, Italy

Verona, Italy
"what light through yonder window breaks"

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Let's Talk Champagne!

Just because there is bubbles in your glass does not mean you are drinking champagne. In order to be an "authentic" champagne, the vintage has to come from the champagne region of France. During my time in France, I was fortunate to visit both Epernay & Reims and tour some of the most popular champagne houses including one of my personal favorites, Veuve Clicquot



Visiting the Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin House was top on my bucket list and the experience was one I wouldn't trade. From the moment you step onto the property, you are transformed into a world of wonder, a world of champagne!


Inside the lobby, Cliquot's signature yellow makes for an effervescent atmosphere! From refrigerators to men's ties, the Veuve label is obviously well known. I really enjoyed our first stop in Madame Clicquot's library where you can learn the history of this successful champagne family. The tours are available in both French and English.


The stairs into the champagne caves are old and steep but what lies below is worth the trek downward. (The labels on each stair represent each vintage year) Being a bit claustrophobic, I was a tad hesitant on the idea of a cave but once I was inside, the awe of it all overtook any reservations I previously had. There were mini vehicles hustling around carrying champagne bottles from room to room, rows and rows of dusty bottles lined rooms, all waiting their turn to be popped in celebration. 




We took a moment to etch our initials in one hoping one day it just might be the one we enjoy for our 30th anniversary! Similar to that of Juliet's walls (which we will see in an upcoming post), there were writings on many of the bottles housed here in the caves.




Some selections are locked within gates. This would include your Grand Cru, La Grande Dame, and other specialty vintages. Boy, what I wouldn't give for that key!! The caves are host to many exclusive parties and guests. It was an honor just being here.




Touring champagne houses in France is a once in a lifetime experience. This was made possible for us through Private Champagne Tours with our hosts Sydney and Darin. 

Visiting the vineyards of the champagne region in France you learn many things including how to properly open bubbly. Americans like to consider the loud pop and cork flying through the air as celebratory. However, the French honor their champagne by lightly twisting the bottle and making little or no sound. And you pour by holding the bottle by its underside like Scott is demonstrating here.


There are hundreds of small champagne houses in the surrounding areas. One of our favorites, The Perching Bar is located in the hills above the vineyards and yes, it's a tree house! This champagne house on stilts has amazing views of the vineyards below.


Another hidden gem is Roger Manceaux, a true family run vineyard with some of the finest people and champagne I've ever seen. It was a distinct pleasure to spend time here. The few bottles I was able to bring home were not enough. If any one has a passion for what they do, it's the Manceaux family. Roger, himself, took the time to not only show us around, but teach us the champagne process & helped us to understand the true love and meaning that goes into their everyday business. If you're in the area, make a point of stopping here, you won't be sorry.




Of course, there are big houses along the champagne path including the windmill of Mumm in Reims. We were able to walk in the vineyards here and it was absolutely breathtaking. The primary grapes used in champagne are pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot meunier, all of which can be found in these appellations. 


Drinking champagne in France feels historical, monumental, and honorable. To us it may be fun and celebratory, but to the French, it's a way of life. I think Dom Perignon said it best when he discovered it ... "Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!"

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

P A R I S

Let's start at the very beginning. Paris was the first stop on our European adventure. From the very moment I could see the Eiffel Tower through the fog from my window seat on Air France, I knew I was about to begin the journey of a lifetime. I don't think my feet really hit the ground until I stepped off the train near Luxembourg gardens. The beauty that surrounded me at that moment is a picture I will always carry with me...



There is so much hype about Paris and romance, the city of love and as I was about to discover with my own two eyes, all of it is with good reason. Sharing the love of Paris is probably easiest through photos like this and I have 1,700 of them! But romance here isn't just love between two people, but rather a love of life and presence. Just being here, whether you're happily married or single, brings about a love all its own.


The parks, the gardens *Jardin*,the cafes, the architecture *Eiffel*, the people (the French are very pleasant!), the food, the wine *vin*, the shops *Champs Elysees*, the natural wonders *Seine*, the museums *Louvre*, the churces *Notre Dame*, and the nightlife *Moulin Rouge*, all of them make Paris a place of wonder and enchantment. 




My favorite way of getting around Paris was the Velib. Velibs are bicycles that you rent at any given station around the city for just 1.50E. You can then ride them and turn them in at another location. When you're ready to go, grab another! There are Velib stations at all the major attractions. Many locals use them as a form of everyday transportation. We rode ours to Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower and down the streets of Saint Germain at midnight! And yes, there are bike paths on every street but this is a rather large city so the streets are busy with cars, buses, and taxis. Velibs are fun but not for the faint at heart.




I was pleasantly surprised by the beauty beneath the Eiffel Tower as well as the structure itself. There are gravel pathways through trees and gardens, as well as a beautiful pond just below the base of the magnificently grand tower. My time in Paris taught me one thing and that is to enjoy my surroundings more. Opening your eyes automatically opens your heart. 


Nighttime in Paris is spectacular and it doesn't have to be all champagne and caviar (although those are good too) but one of my favorite memories in the city of lights and love was alongside the Seine river. While watching the lights sparkle and the beams hit the moon off the Eiffel Tower, I had the best beer and official FRENCH fries of my life! Fasten your seat belts all you romantics out there, because Paris has every wonder and glory of all big cities, including night creatures such as rats. That's right, look up and you see what's in this picture, look down and you have company enjoying the view!






My visit to Paris wouldn't be complete without a train trip up north to Montmartre and some high heel fun at the Moulin Rouge. The cabaret dinner club was built in 1889 and has been a part of Paris nightlife ever since. It became hugely popular after the hit movie starring Nicole Kidman was released in 2001. The street is lined with erotic stores, not exactly a place for children, but a fun night on the town indeed.


Leaving Paris was no easy task but I remind myself every day to keep opening my eyes, the way Paris taught me to. One of my favorite authors puts this into perspective. "Il n’y a que deux endroits au monde où l’on puisse vivre heureux:  chez soi et à Paris." which means "there are only two places in the world where we can live happy, at home and in Paris"
Ernest Hemingway


I'm happy to be home but we'll always have Paris..... 

Monday, February 13, 2012

V E N E Z I A

First word that comes to mind when I think of my time in Venice, Italy is C O L O R. Venice is by far the brightest, most colorful city I have ever been to. From sheets that hang across the clothes lines outside windows, to window boxes full of geraniums of all colors, artwork, masks, buildings, and food are all vibrant with hues of reds, golds, greens, & blues. Pulling up to the dock via water taxi is surreal. This beautiful city floats about the sea like art on water. 




The awe continued as I walked around this undeniably unique place. Tiny little streets (calle) that zig zag in every direction. It's very easy to get lost here and you'll absolutely love it! There is an abundance of shops that sell Monaco glass, masks galore!, jewelry, art, & keepsakes. This is indeed a fun place to shop and people watch.




The food is Venice is fabulous. Everything is so fresh and yes, colorful! There is nothing like bright green vegetables, ripened red tomatoes, and plum colored vino to devour. However, don't bring food with you when you walk into San Marco Square, you will most certainly be attacked by pigeons! They flock in the center of this famous courtyard and they are most certainly not shy.




We stayed at the Molino Stucky Hilton across the canal from Venice. I loved this because from the top deck of our hotel, you could see all of the floating city, not to mention 360 degrees of water and phenomenal sunsets! It was only a 5 minute trek to get to Venice via the hotel water taxi which ran every 15 minutes at no charge to hotel guests. The staff was gracious and the hotel is quite new so everything was clean and modern. 

One of my favorite things to do was sit up here on the pool deck at sunset with a black mojito in hand. I know, I only drink wine but the waitor talked me into trying this Venetian specialty mixer and I was quite pleased with it! I even brought the recipe home with me. Just add vodka, lime juice, seltzer water, mint leaves, & licorice liquer. The result is delicious.



We spent the next two days in Venice in search of a red brick heart, "cuore in mattone". Legend has it that if you touch this heart, you will find love, and if you touch it with someone, together, it will bring you a lifelong destiny of being united as one. Very romantic, and right up my alley. Had I only known it really was an alley! The search was a long but fun one. We finally came upon Sotoportego Preti and lo and behold, the brick heart. 


We of course made our way across, over, under, and around the famous Rialto Bridge, spent time with the Gondoliers, and had our own little Masquerade Ball. All in all, Venice is tops on my list as a place every one should see at least once in their lifetime...





 CIAO!

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Love is in the Air

I spent my day in search of love... the love of Valentine's day that is! I was pretty surprised at the results.... 


My first stop was completely unexpected. I came across this gem of a boutique as I was cruising down to Dana Point. I couldn't help but notice it and went out of my way to double back and check it out. Thank goodness I did. I've seen many floral shops but none quite like this one. Lisa, aka The Flower Girl, has everything one could want for a romantic Valentine's date. From cookies, to decor, plants, delicious scented candles, and the most unique and gorgeous floral arrangements, this is your one-stop shop for love!
Two of the many exquisite floral arrangements at The Flower Girl.What is it about flowers and Valentine's Day you ask? Is it cliche? Overdone?I think not! Especially when your sweetie goes out of their way to find something as unique and special as you are. Flowers have a way of making us feel happy and special. Not only are they beautiful to look at, but the scent of flowers is naturally appealing. There's nothing quite like the relaxing smell of lavender or the sweet scent of roses. My personal favorite - tuberose and gardenia.



Everywhere I went today I found generous displays of love. It's hard not to feel uplifted when there are hearts floating in the air around you. But it wasn't just the displays that were shooting the cupid arrow, I found the people that worked around them were too. I have worked in the floral business in the past and let me tell you first hand, it's A LOT of work. You would think these people would be tired and somewhat grumpy, but no. I think they love what they do so much and they love having the ability to spread love around that despite the hard work and many hours they put in around V.D., they spread nothing but smiles :)





But let's face it, not everyone is into big bouquets of flowers. That's ok! Succulents have become very popular over this past year. They are easy to maintain and environmentally conscious. I love them and yet I've never seen any as adorable as these!! I only have one question, can I fit my wallet in one?




Still need ideas? Well who doesn't love chocolate? Especially the kind that wafts through the air and leaves you begging for more! I smelled this candle burning and it made me look around for an oven to see what was baking. Simply amazing, undeniably delicious!  And on that note, add this to a basket with some champagne or vino and you're golden.







 I had to venture away from the floral at some point and this window display at Anthropologie made my heart go pitter patter. How adorable for the chef in all of us! I'm sure there is more than one use for this little beauty, I'm just sayin'!!



And the cookie goes modern. I couldn't help but laugh at some of the incredibly creative statements on these treats from Suzy's Cupcakes. Clever doesn't begin to describe them. I bet if you were so inclined, they could make one that says "Marry Me" !!!





 
What about the love that nature gives us everyday? As I sat here on a bench above the Dana Point Harbor, I felt overjoyed by the beauty before me. If you look closely, you might just be able to make out a heart within this picture. Love comes in all shapes and sizes. All you have to do is open your eyes, it's right in front of you.






There is nothing quite like the love that comes from a union of two hearts. It doesn't take a marriage to share love though. Giving love to others is by far the "greatest love of all" (love you Whitney) I like to share love with my friends and family on Valentine's day. Any opportunity to tell the people I love how much they mean to me is one I will gladly embrace.






Does anyone recognize this cup? Admit it, we've all been here. In fact, many of us are addicts. A caffeine fix is one thing but are you addicted to love? If not, you should be! Love is contagious, it's the best drug in the world! All you need is love. There are probably more songs written about love than any other subject combined. Why? Because love is universal. It has no boundaries. Still not convinced? All I have to say is you might as well face it .... :)






I found this window on PCH in Laguna Beach. Much and Often. There is no such thing as giving too much love. Even the simplest things are acts of love. A wink, a smile, a hug, a phone call, a text. Where love is concerned, it's always the more, the merrier!





Big displays of love are everywhere. Driving by the Laguna Nursery on PCH can't help but put a smile on your face. Wherever you are this Valentine's day and whomever you choose to spend it with, enjoy the moment and share the love :) :) :)

Saturday, February 11, 2012

T O S C A N A ... parte due

Caparzo Winery has vineyards throughout Tuscany. I was searching for the one where they filmed the wedding scene in the movie "Letters to Juliet".  This took me on a journey down many dirt roads off the beaten path. Some people might get frustrated when they get lost or are unable to find their destination, but me, I was overjoyed by the experience. I welcomed the adventure that was to come and I was immediately thrown into it when I came across this book in the middle of nowhere....

Knowing my fascination with Shakespeare and especially the play I wrote a thesis on, Romeo & Juliet, how perfect that I should find "Juliet, Naked" under a gorgeous tree in the middle of Tuscany. But where did it come from? Obviously in good condition, and weighted with a rock, it was as if it were sitting there just waiting for me. When you travel through Tuscany, a bottle of red wine should always be in your car awaiting situations such as this. I read as much as I could and purchased the book when I got home to finish it. "Juliet," in this case is an album. It's a story of love, loneliness, & music, and that story struck a remarkable similarity to the novel I am currently writing. So why did I find it?  It was part of my journey leading me back to writing. There was also many humorous moments during my time under this tree reading a book by the NY Time's  best selling author Nick Hornby. My husband and I shared laughs, we looked at the sky & the vineyards surrounding us, in other words, we made memories that would last a lifetime. And to think, we pulled over and stopped here just to look at the view. We had no idea what we were getting into!
But Caparzo was yet to be found, so we traveled on.... and on.... and on..... until we came to this gate....
Finally!! I found my destination, but was happiness to follow? The gate appeared to be locked, and so it was.
The disappointment on my face must have been huge because my husband immediately came and put his arms around me. We traveled all this way... I wasn't giving up. I couldn't. Just then, a gentleman appeared out of nowhere and waved at us to stay. He went inside and reappeared with a lady by his side. She had a set of keys with her, opened the gate and with a huge smile invited us inside. Another thing I learned on this journey, determination & faith go a long way.



The lady who spoke in a very thick Italian accent was very sweet. She offered us tastings of all their most popular and best wines, all free of charge. She seemed to appreciate my love of the film and told us of the many locations in which they shot at. There were posters hung everywhere with scenes from the movie, all of them advertising their Brunello that was featured in the film. We, of course, took a few bottles of that with us. My favorite wine here was the La Casa. The Vigna La Casa is aged for a total of 36 months, the first 12 in French barriques, the last 24 in French Oak barrels. The long process makes this vino a tad more pricey than others, but oh so worth every penny! And then there is the Borgo Scopeto, an intense Chianti made from sangiovese grapes that come from the most important vineyards of the village. I left Caparzo with a free wine bag filled with my favorites and the feeling that the Italian winemakers love to share their passion with those who truly admire it.


Inside the estate of Caparzo vineyards, there are hanging flower baskets, wildflowers, and whispering trees that sing with the wind. My time here was magical, just like something out of the movie itself. Ok, ok, call me the hopeless romantic, all my friends do, but the words echoed in my head ever since I heard them ...
"What and If are two words as non-threatening as words can be. But put them together side by side and they have the power to haunt you for the rest of your life." I wasn't about to leave here with any sense of "what" "if"



There was plenty more wine tasting to be done in the hilltop towns of Montalcino & Montepulciano. But first we were fortunate enough to witness some of the farm life in Italy which included chickens, donkeys, and cats! Lots of cats!! Chicken roam free around the land of Tuscany and an interesting side note is that you don't see them on many menus either!







My playful friend, Chianti (left) was wondering around these streets in Montepulciano (right) The buildings are all really tall here and the streets narrow. People do live here in flats above the many cafes and shops below.

The hillside city of Montepulciano from afar resembles that of a fortress. We even did a wine tasting in an actual fort that sits at the highest point of this well protected town.  Bottles of wine lay like this (right) in every window and the glasses are always full.



I have to say my favorite part of these hilltop adventures was the sunsets. I'm not often at a loss for words, but these pictures of natural beauty leave me speechless...

 
As we bid adieu to the vineyards of Tuscany,
I am reminded of this quote from Hornby's book...

"All you need to know is that something profound and life changing took place"